|
Canine Water Safety
Help your dog stay afloat in all water conditions.
Aren't all dogs natural swimmers? When do you decide what water conditions warrant a flotation device?
Most dogs are excellent swimmers. When given the chance, many dogs will run around on shore and jump into the water to fetch and play. When a dog swims from shore, the dog chooses how far away from shore he/she will swim. But many of us are taking our four legged friends along on adventures that go beyond the dog's comfort level, swimming abilities and stamina. Our desire to share the experience with our pups places them in conditions with moving water, distances from shore or water temperatures that test their ability to survive. Using a K-9 Float Coat™ anytime your dog is around water just makes sense. There are instances where a dog has jumped in from a dock but was not able to get back up, a potentially life threatening situation had a human not been there to assist. On another occasion a Shih Tzu entered a small creek, caught up in chasing a duck. Within four feet of river, the dog was pulled to the bottom, overcome by its long hair and river current. Again disaster was avoided because a human became involved. Exposure to a potentially life threatening situation for both humans and dogs could have been avoided with a life vest.
Is hypothermia an issue for a dog? How do you know when the dog has exceeded this point?
Yes, hypothermia is definitely a concern. Very young and very old dogs are more susceptible to hypothermia. Keep a close eye on your dog throughout the duration of exposure. A tail, which is not held high and utilized as a rudder, is one of the first signs of fatigue and a stressed dog. Shivering, decreased heart rate, dilated pupils, pale or blue mucous membranes, stupor, unconsciousness or coma are all signs of hypothermia. Here again a life vest can assist in more ways then the obvious. By assisting your dog in floating, your dog can utilize energy spent on trying to stay afloat and use that energy for staying warm. Additionally the closed cell flotation of our K-9 Float Coat provides insulation from the cold.
How do you safely rescue a struggling dog from the water? And how do you know if your dog is struggling?
Use the handle placed along the back of the dog flotation device to assist the dog to safety. In the event the dog is not wearing a flotation device gently lift the dog by his/her body. Do not pull on legs, head or tail. If the dog has suffered some sort of trauma (broken bones), place the dog on a board and lift him out of the water gently. A good indication your dog is struggling is to watch for the rudder indicator. If the tail is dropped and not being used as a rudder, that may be your first sign of a fatigued, struggling dog. Choking, gasping for air and climbing on top of other swimmers are also signs of a struggling dog.
How do you decide what water medium is okay for your specific dog (i.e. reservoirs, rivers, lakes, etc.)?
Personal experience, knowing your abilities and the abilities of your dog and being familiar with environmental conditions are just a few common sense approaches to understand the limits of you and your dog.
How do you know if you are asking too much of your dog in a water environment and possibly putting him at risk?
Any time you venture out into a new environment, you are exposing yourself and your dog to a new learning curve. By acknowledging this you can be attentive to your dog's needs and your dog will understand your needs. After several outings both you and your pup will be well accustomed to the activities.
|
|
Make sure you boating experience is safe for your pet as well.
What modes of water travel are people taking their dogs, and how does the dog ride or stay in the vehicle?
Dogs are joining us while sailing, power boating, rafting, kayaking, hiking along rivers, house boating and water-skiing. As for keeping the dog secure, that is a tough call. DO NOT AT ANY TIME secure your dog to the craft with a leash. Tying a dog to a craft is almost certain death should the boat flip or sink.
What are some basic things you need to keep in mind when putting your dog in a motorboat, canoe, kayak, raft, sail boat, etc.?
The world of watercraft is completely different than the conditions found on land. With wet surfaces, footing can be unstable or downright slippery. The pitching and rolling of boats as well as the sudden movements in whitewater can also present a challenge. Humans have seats and pads that create a comfortable and secure place. Animals are rarely insulated from the cold wet bottom of a canoe or sea kayak and often have no secure place to wedge in and "hunker down" to minimize being tossed about on rafts, powerboats or sailboats. Provide a secure "seat" for your pup and consider using footwear (Bark'n Boots) that will allow your dog to walk around on fiberglass decks, raft tubes and other slippery surfaces without sliding and scratching or marring surfaces with sharp claws. A life jacket is key not only to assist your dog in staying afloat should he/she fall overboard, but also to give you a way of lifting them from the water. (Note: make sure you are using the proper size flotation device.)
The flotation device should fit snugly, provide your pup with enough buoyancy which is placed evenly along the dog's torso to float them in a natural horizontal swimming position and will not allow your dog to slip or fall out of the flotation device. With a few simple steps in the planning process and being aware of your pup's needs, outings can be made safe, comfortable and rewarding experiences for all.
|
Note: All prices in US Dollars
|
Disaster Preparedness
|
|
| Always keep a collar and tag on your dog or cat. (For cats, we recommend break-away collars designed to slip over a cat's head if the collar gets caught on something.) On the tag, include your phone number and address in case the phones are not working. Tags should display the number of your emergency quarters (see below). In addition, inserting a microchip and/or tattooing offer a more permanent form of ID to use in addition to collar ID tags. There are pet ID services that provide a central toll-free number you can display on a tag, which can be very useful in an emergency.
Find safe places you can take your animals before an emergency. Important: Red Cross shelters cannot admit animals, other than recognized service dogs. So look in advance for lodging that will accept animals during disasters (and note any restrictions). Possibilities include hotels or motels, boarding kennels, veterinary clinics, dog training clubs, and friends and family. Keep phone numbers handy, and if you hear of an impending disaster, call for reservations. Animal shelters typically will not have room due to animals currently in their care and those displaced by a disaster.
Assemble a Portable Pet Supply Kit. Keep kit items together in an accessible place and store them in sturdy containers that can be carried (duffel bags, covered trash containers, etc.). Use waterproof containers for items that can be damaged by water.
Include:
• Food:
Store at least a two-week supply of pet food (check shelf life date) in an airtight and waterproof container. For canned food, buy flip-top cans. Keep treats and chew toys on hand to help calm animals during stressful times.
•Bottled or purified water:
Store a two-week supply in gallon containers . For example, a 40 pound dog needs at least a gallon of water a day, and cats require a quart. Keep containers out of sunlight to avoid algae growth. Rotate the water at least once a month. Flood water or other water sources may be contaminated in a disaster. If officials issue a "boil water" warning, tap water is not healthy to drink.
• Can opener, bowls, an extra collar, a 10-foot leash, brush, some toys, plastic bags/pooper-scooper.
• Copies of the dog's license, rabies certificate, other pet records, notes about feeding schedules, medical conditions and behavior problems, and vet contact information. Store along with your driver's license in a waterproof container.
• A two-week supply of any pet medications. If your pet is high-strung, ask your vet for tranquilizers to keep in the kit. If any medication needs refrigeration, have an ice cooler ready.
• Animal first aid kit. Also, ask your vet and others in your area where to take your animals in the event they are injured during a disaster.
• Photos of each of your animals, including any distinguishing markings. Store the pictures in resealable plastic bags in case you need to post them in wet weather. These pictures can help you find a lost animal.\
• Blanket quilt to protect you and your pets from winds, flying glass or other debris.
• Flashlight, weather radio, fresh batteries in resealable plastic bags, and cell phone with charger. (Have copies of vital personal papers and items ready to go as well.)
• Carrier or crate:
An "Evacsak" offers a safe way to transport a small animal while taking up less space than carriers. You can get them at www.evacsak.net If you have a hard sided carrier, Place a shoe box-size litter box and a food and a water dish in a cat carrier. Mark your contact information on pet carriers and other items.
|
|
Have a leash and harness ready for each of your dogs. A harness will allow you to control a frightened dog. You may want to get a harness and leash for cats too. To avoid injury, do not leave pets unattended on leash.
Keep your pet's vaccinations up to date. During times of crisis, pets get loose and become exposed to infectious diseases.
Line up trusted neighbors, relatives and/or friends ahead of time who can take in your pets in case of emergency. Set up a buddy system with neighbors, so you can check on one another's animals during a disaster. Exchange phone numbers, vet information and house-keys. Have a permission slip put in your vet file, so that your vet will know who can authorize necessary emergency treatment for your animal. If you use a pet-sitter, provide a disaster plan to be used to evacuate and care for your animals in your absence.
|
|
1) At the first hint of disaster, call ahead to confirm emergency lodging arrangements for you and your pets. Have your pet disaster supply kit ready to go.
2) Don't delay. Act when you hear emergency warnings or sirens. You need the time to save yourself and your pets.
3) Make sure all dogs and cats are wearing secure collars with up-to-date ID. Add the phone number and address of your temporary lodging or of a friend or relative outside the disaster area. Buy temporary tags or put adhesive tape on the back of your pet's everyday ID tag, adding information with an indelible pen.
4) Do your best to take your animals with you, and remember your disaster plan.
5) Plan for the possibility that you won't get home before it's time to evacuate. Contact the people with access to your home to pick up your pet and emergency supply kit, and ask them to meet you at a prearranged location.
6) If pets are left behind, be sure to leave large quantities of food and water accessible to the animals even if you think you'll be gone only a day. Arrange for someone to pick up the pets in case you can't return to the house.
7) Comfort your animals during a disaster. If an animal is not ready to be comforted, let an animal come to you when she is ready. You might feed a pet less than usual to lessen the chance of diarrhea.
8) Use caution when handling injured pets. Any animal may bite when nervous or hurt. A decrease in normal body temperature can indicate shock. If shock is suspected, keep your pet calm, and wrap in blankets or towels to maintain body temperature. Seek veterinary help as soon as possible.
9) If you know a disaster victim who has pets, find out if someone is taking care of the pets. Check with neighbors or a rental manager. Post a note on the door of the residence asking to be contacted if nobody else is taking care of the pets. If you think pets may be stranded inside a home and you don t have a key, notify the nearest animal shelter.
Disaster preparedness guidance:
http://www.hsus.org/disaster/index.html
http://166.112.200.141/fema/anemer.htm
For a free brochure, "Pets and Disasters: Get Prepared", send a self-addressed, stamped envelope to HSUS Disaster Services, 2100 L St. NW, Washington, DC 20037.
First Aid:
Additional Information: Please consult the Canine First Aid flyer. Emergency Animal Rescue Service (EARS) www.uan.org/ears or phone (916) 429-2457
|
Keep a card in your wallet with emergency contact information so people will know you have pets at home in case you are injured.
Place "Pets Inside" safety stickers in windows so emergency personnel and neighbors will know that pets live in your home.
On days when storms are forecast, be sure to leave ample supplies of food and especially water within reach of your animals.
Know where area animal shelters are in case a pet gets loose. Start searching immediately, as shelters often can t house large numbers of displaced animals for very long.
Avoid boarding your animal in a facility that's in a flood zone. Also ask if the facility is staffed 24 hours a day.
Identify a sheltered haven in your home for you and your pets in case you're stranded there. This might be under a stairway, a basement, or an interior room away from windows. Learn how to turn off the gas and electricity in your home.
|
|
Canine First Aid
Proper preparation and First Aid kits.
How do canine first aid needs differ from human needs?
Dogs have a higher metabolic rate than humans. Their respiration and heart rates are considerably faster. Performing CPR on a dog differs from the procedure used on humans. Many over-the-counter drugs like ibuprofen or acetaminophen can be fatal for pets so becoming aware of these issues and others are key. However, some over-the-counter medicines can be very useful in alleviating discomfort and restoring health to a sick or injured dog. Knowing which over-the-counter drugs are beneficial and the proper dosages is extremely important, once again due to the dog's higher rate of metabolism. Also bandages for pet specific wounds will require different size dressings due to their fur and body configurations. Additionally, the types of wounds most often sustained by pets are quite different than the type of wounds sustained by humans.
How do Ruff Wear's First Aid Kits differ from a typical human first aid kit?
Ruff Wear's First Aid Kits are specifically designed to address the needs of pets. The contents of a human kit are basically useless on fur and information that may be provided in a human kit does not apply to animals. Any first aid kit is only as good as the information provided or the knowledge of the caregiver. All of Ruff Wear's First Aid Kits contain our Quick Guide to Animal Emergencies. This excellent guide was written utilizing information provided by several veterinarians as well as search and rescue personnel. Their input allowed us to create a first aid kit that is informative, addresses the most common ailments, and contains a wide array of dressings allowing the care giver to treat everything from a split toenail to broken bones.
How can I be best prepared before heading out with my dog?
Just as you would educate yourself on human first aid before the need arises, you should familiarize yourself with the contents of your Ruff Wear First Aid Kit. Read the enclosed Quick Guide to Animal Emergencies thoroughly prior to heading out, and keep the first aid kit with you when on the go with your dog. Anytime you are out of range of a vet, you need to be prepared to treat your dog. The following questions and answers give you an idea of the type of medical situations you may encounter while exploring the great outdoors with your four legged friend.
Recognize common pet ailments in the field.
What are some of the most common injuries a dog may sustain during a typical day in the outdoors?
Common injuries are paw and pad lacerations, dehydration and heat stroke. These can be avoided by being aware of the climate as well as environmental conditions. If you are wearing protective footwear, consider booties for your dog. If you are thirsty, consider that you dog is most likely in need of water.
How do I know if my dog is suffering from the heat or dehydration?
Be aware of your daily environment and the conditioning of your dog. If you are hot chances are your dog is hot. If you suspect that your dog is becoming dehydrated pull straight up on the skin on the back of the neck and release the skin. If the skin does not immediately fall back into place, chances are your dog is dehydrated.
Can dogs suffer from the effects of altitude?
Yes, if the dog has little experience with, or exposure to elevation they can quickly become lethargic and dehydrated. Use common sense, if you are feeling ill chances are your dog is experiencing similar effects. The best way to prevent altitude sickness is to acclimate to the elevation by spending at least one night sleeping at the trailhead. Drinking a lot of water throughout the trip will also reduce the effects of altitude. Take it easy and be aware of your dog's physical condition until you become confident that your pet is suffering no ill effects.
Can dogs get hypothermic while out in the cold?
Yes, a dog can get hypothermic. This occurs when a dog's body temperature drops below 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Most often we see hypothermic pets from exposure to the elements, without proper shelter, protection or a lack of being acclimated to cold weather. Elderly or very young animals are sometimes unable to regulate their body temperature properly. Shock can also contribute to the inability to regulate proper body temperature. Hypothermic symptoms include weak pulse, decreased heart rate, dilated pupils, shivering, blue mucous membranes, stupor, unconsciousness or coma. If frostbite is a concern there will be a discoloration of the skin (blue early on and black in later stages). Areas susceptible to frostbite are the tips of ears, the tail, and pads of the feet. Additionally, there will be a lack of pain or sensation of the affected area or it may be extremely painful when the area begins to warm up.
In the event your dog is cold, the first thing it will typically do is try to huddle with humans or other dogs. If your dog is seeking shelter or climbing into your sleeping bag, consider this a good indication that your dog is cold. Make sure the dog is drinking plenty of water as this will help to maintain body temperatures. Protective "clothing" such as our K-9 Overcoat II (a windproof nylon shell lined with fleece) is a great way to reduce exposure to the elements. Booties are another excellent way to reduce exposure and heat loss. In most cases cold sets in faster when activity is reduced. This is the time to be most aware of the threat of cold.
Can a dog contract Giardia or other water-borne illnesses?
Yes, always try to make sure my dog drinks from a quality water source (filtered or treated). Also as a courtesy and safety consideration to others make sure your dog is not defecating near the water supply compounding the problem.
Administer First Aid while in the field.
What do you do if your dog stops breathing? Is CPR an option?
Yes, CPR is a very real solution. We know of one dog that was successfully brought back to life after her heart and respiration stopped from smoke inhalation in a house fire. The procedure is different then the procedure used in resuscitating humans and the worst time to learn CPR is when you need to perform it. An excellent source for becoming familiar with the procedure is Ruff Wear's Quick Guide to Animal Emergencies.
What do you do if your dog is choking?
It is best to learn and know the proper sequence in which to respond to a choking incident before the actual event. Familiarize yourself by reading a quality pet first aid guide to be prepared before the need arises. Performing the Heimlich is a good option but only once you have ruled out the possibility of a foreign object lodged in the throat that may be accessed and removed through the mouth. Again there is no substitute for a good pet first aid guide to provide you with a step-by-step procedure
What's the best way to remove a tick from a dog?
Wearing gloves you should grasp the entire tick with tweezers and remove the complete tick making certain to remove all the mouthparts. You may want to save the tick for identification by your vet to confirm if the tick carries any diseases. Apply a disinfectant or antibiotic ointment to the bite.
How can you calm an injured dog?
Even if the dog is your best buddy, always approach an injured dog with caution. Assess the situation and consider a muzzle to restrain a pet that is in pain and possible shock. A traumatized pet will often snap or bite. In more extreme conditions a blanket may be dropped over the animal until a muzzle can be applied. Dogs are very intuitive so any panic or cause for alarm by the caregiver will raise the fear factor for the pet. By remaining calm and being prepared you will be able to reassure the animal and not cause additional anxiety.
It's up to you!
The best way to reduce the possibility of a pet sustaining an injury is prevention. Be aware of your surroundings and potentially hazardous plants and animals with which your dog may come in contact. Be prepared with a first aid kit that matches the duration of your time away from immediate assistance as well as your exposure to the elements. Remember, the worst time to learn about assisting an injured pet is when your dog sustains an injury. Become familiar with the kit and the information provided so that you will know how you may assist before the need arises.
Traveling with Your Dog
|
|
Provide the most comfortable experience for you and your dog on the road or in the air.
How can you make your dog more comfortable in the car while on the road?
By exposing your pet to traveling in a vehicle whenever possible, they will become adjusted and excited to join you on your adventures. The exception to this is when the dog's only car ride is associated with a negative experience such as a trip to the Vet or when the dog is placed in a vehicle without proper creature comforts. Remember your dog is traveling without the convenience of a comfortable seat. Often their response is to wedge themselves into a small space to keep from sliding around, especially on winding roads. Use caution with small pups or highly excitable dogs so that they do not interfere with the safe operation of the vehicle. Consider a kennel or crate if space allows.
Do dogs get car sick, and if so, how can you prevent or deal with it?
Some dogs do get motion sick but it seems rare. One dog breeder suggests feeding vanilla ice cream to an ailing dog. Ice cream will coat and soothe an upset stomach. Consult with your vet if motion sickness becomes an ongoing issue.
Is it okay to sedate a dog for long drives or flights? Are there other ways to calm my dog emotionally if he doesn't like the car?
Some humans feel the need to sedate their pets when traveling. You may wish to avoid sedating because of health concerns and want your traveling buddy to be able to run, jump and play if we make a stop to see roadside attractions. Always consult with your Vet before administering any medications to your dog. An alternative would be to expose your pet to traveling several times with a positive outcome. If you are driving get them used to the vehicle, if flying, familiarize the dog with the crate so that it is not a new experience come the day of your departure. Provide a space and place that is familiar to the dog and bring items that remind your dog of home. Toys, bedding or a favorite chew toy are a few examples of items that will console the dog and provide an outlet for nervous or excessive energy.
Is it safe to keep a dog in the back of an open truck?
Placing a dog in the back of an open truck is unsafe. However, if you choose to travel with your critter in the back of an open truck make certain that the dog is secured in a manner that will not allow the dog to fall out or hang himself should he try to investigate beyond the truck bed. Consider the exposure to weather. You may be inside the vehicle with the heater or air conditioner on but if your pup is outside he may be wet and experiencing wind-chill from traveling down the highway at 60 mph or baking in the heat of the sun. While on the road, bring along a pad or bed that can be moved from the car to camp to temporary accommodations so that the dog knows that this is their space to call home for awhile.
Ensure the best experience at your recreational destination.
How can you research whether your destination is dog friendly for hiking, mountain biking, climbing and other activities?
By knowing your dogs' athletic abilities, how they adapt to varying climates and the terrain you will be visiting, you are half way there. Just as you might research a destination and travel route for your personal needs, check the anticipated weather (www.accuweather.com) as well as accommodations with your pet in mind. There are many guidebooks and Internet sites that specifically address traveling and lodging with a pet. National Parks and National Forests have specific rules and regulations regarding dogs. Becoming familiar with these rules before you arrive will reduce potential surprises or a spoiled trip.
If you can't take your dog on your recreational activity, what is a reasonable time to leave him behind?
Ask why you would bring your dog if they were not going to join you in your activities? There are times when it is in everyone's best interest to leave your dog behind. Distance, terrain and exposure to the elements are all considerations. If you do need to leave your dog behind, make sure he is safe and secure so that others don't think that the animal has been abandoned. When using a leash to secure your dog, consider and plan around the possibility that they might become tangled which can strand them in direct sun or keep him from water, cause choking or asphyxiation. Also consider the possibility of people approaching the area your dog is confined to and the potential for the dog to attack. Folks may need to walk by your dog to gain access to a trail or right of way and your pup may think he is on duty, doing his best to protect what he thinks is your area. This can result in some pretty ugly legal situations as well as spoiling someone else's outing. Always provide a source of water and food that can not be spilled and consider the dangers of leaving food. Others animals or dogs might want to eat this food and could fight for it. Remember your dog will be vulnerable if left tied up. As for what is a reasonable time for a dog to be left behind, that would depend on the dogs and humans comfort level and the weather and exposure to the elements. As for leaving your dog in a car, we have all heard the horror stories of dogs and children left in a car in the sun so exercise caution.
How can I help my dog maintain a low profile and not annoy other travelers, campers or hikers?
The impact your dog has on others, the surrounding area and other animals will have a direct impact on your enjoyment. Keep in mind that your dog can hear, smell and sense things that you can't. A dog barking may be warning you of an approaching bear, a snake in the bush or perhaps a chipmunk dropping by. In any case the barking has an effect on other's experiences. Find the source of why the dog may be barking and address the cause not the response. Keep your dog under control and out of others spaces. While on the trail maintain control of your dog to reduce the potential of an unwanted greeting. Pick up dog waste. Do not allow your dog to chase other critters and remember other folks may not share the same appreciation you have for dogs. By following a few common courtesies we will all be able to continue to have positive experiences in our shared environment.
Offer the right amount of food, water, and exercise while on the road.
What is the best method for food and water management while traveling?
The best carrying system is one that is convenient for the owner, allowing you to tend to your pet's needs with ease. Food and water are key and not always available along travel routes. Always keep plenty of fresh water in a spill resistant bowl that is accessible to your pet as well as a larger container for refills. Follow your feeding routine to maintain the eating schedule your dog has become accustomed to and stick to the food you use at home. Resist the temptation to feed your dog miscellaneous snacks and road food, you will all be much happier. Ruff Wear has addressed the need for food and water while on the road with our new Growler!" and Growler Cinch Top!" which hold 6.25 quarts or 25 cups of dry food as well as our Original Collapsible Food and Water Bowls.
How often should you offer your dog water while on the road?
Always! Water is the key to your dog's health. In addition to the obvious health benefits, hydration helps to maintain a normal temperature and proper digestion. Always bring extra water for your dog in addition to your own needs so neither of you gets thirsty. If you suspect that your dog is becoming dehydrated, pull straight up on the skin on the back of the neck and release the skin. If the skin does not immediately fall back into place, chances are your dog is dehydrated.
How often should you stop and exercise your dog on road trips? What is a reasonable driving time before you should give them a break from the car?
This will depend on the individual dog. A good rule is if you need a break, so does your dog. When you stop make sure you are safely off the road and away from traffic. Always have a leash on hand if there are cars or other dogs in the vicinity. Also, keep a close eye on them at rest stops or roadside areas. Often these areas have suspect food and water sources or flora and fauna that you want to keep your dog away from.
What are the essential items you need to bring along while traveling with your dog?
Here's a checklist:
• Food
• Water
• Food & Water bowls
• Collar
• Identification tags
• Dog Bed
• Leash
• Vaccination records
• Training Aids & Toys
• K-9 First Aid Kit™
Additional supplies depending on the destination and activities:
• Kennel/Crate
• Pad or Bedding
• Bark'n Boots™, Ultimate Dog Boots
• Dog Back Pack, Dog Harnesses
• K-9 Float Coat™
• K-9 Overcoat™ Cold weather field oat
If you're traveling far from home should you bring any health information or identification?
Always keep your dog's collar and tags on. If the dog is lost in unfamiliar territory the tags may be your only hope to reuniting you with your dog. Identification tags should include a phone number that has a local contact if possible or a number where a caller can leave a message that can be retrieved while on the road. Bring along a current health certificate available through your veterinarian. If your journey takes you across borders, become familiar with quarantines that may exist in the countries you will be visiting as well as any quarantines that may exist when returning. Whenever you travel with your dog it is wise to pack along a record of vaccinations. This information can prove invaluable when you least expect it.
After reading all of these suggestions you may think twice about including your pup on your next adventure. Don't despair, traveling with your four-legged friend(s) can be extremely rewarding. With a little common sense, using the information provided here and by developing your own routine you and your dogs will become inseparable traveling companions with stories and tales that will have your friends howling.
|
|
"I've caught more ills from people sneezing over me and giving me virus infections than from kissing dogs." - Barbara Woodhouse (1910-1988) Irish author and dog trainer
Four Legged Footwear
|
|
Why would dogs ever need to wear protective dog boots?
Is trail running hard on a dog';s feet?
Trail running is hard on everyone's feet. Rocks, roots, mud, snow or ice can be torturous. Generally, dogs' paws become conditioned to run on familiar surfaces after a few weeks but at the beginning of a season, new terrain and changing environmental conditions can cause stone bruising, cuts and blistered pads.
What about running on pavement in urban settings?
Pavement comes in thousands of textures and can be extremely abrasive. Hot in summer, freezing in winter and often riddled with glass and sharp metal debris. Laced with oils, solvents and de-icing chemicals, this would be the last place I would let my dog run without booties.
Does snow and/or ice pose a problem for dog's feet?
Yes, certain conditions produce sticky, wet snow. In these conditions the snow will ball up in-between the dogs toes and cause irritation, cuts and tenderness. Dogs often chew at this frozen snow, pulling out fur and in some cases chunks of their pads. Granular or frozen snow on the other hand is equivalent to course sandpaper and is extremely abrasive on pads. As more people take their dogs snowshoeing and cross-country skiing on groomed or hard-packed trails, it is especially important to protect their pads. Another hazard would be razor sharp ski and snowboard edges. I have seen several and heard of many more severely cut paws, pads and ankles from frolicking dogs that venture too close to skis and snowboards.
|
|
Prevent paw damage and extend your adventure with dog-specific boots.
Why would dogs ever need to wear protective boots?
Humans are increasing the rate in which they incorporate pets into their activities. Thanks to dog-specific gear that allows dogs to keep up with our own gear-enhanced activities, man s best friend can now accompany us on our adventures. Pets are exposed to situations and conditions that they may not confront on a daily basis. These new ever-changing environmental conditions can cause pads, which are perfectly conditioned for one environment, to become blistered and cut in the new environment. Critters that are adapted to mountainous regions often suffer paw lacerations when asked to perform in lower elevations. Conversely, the lower elevation dwelling dogs will often have difficulty in mountainous and snow environments. Hot asphalt, decomposing granite, shale, lava, scree, chemicals (snow-melters), abrasive sand, grain stubble, ice and snow are just a few of the conditions that can keep your dog out of action for several days.
How can booties improve a dog's performance?
Ruff Wear's product developer, Patrick Kruse recounts lessons learned during the boot development process: I have taken my dog mountain biking on several occasions before we were making Bark'n Boots and at that time thought dog booties were unnecessary. In the product development stages of our Bark'n Boots I soon discovered that my Australian Cattle Dog, Otis, would be ready to go again within about 30 minutes of rest when wearing the boots after a 17 mile run. This was a considerable difference when compared to running him without boots. Otis would often stay off his feet as much as possible for up to three days when he wasn't wearing boots! I always thought that Otis simply had sore muscles from the run but the Bark'n Boot product development testing brought to light the positive impact that booties have against stone bruised and sore pads. Look at the technology in human footwear and how specific shoes allow us to perform at the top of our game for specific activities. Humans rarely head out on any adventure without footwear and yet we often drive our dogs to a new environment and ask them to keep up with us without the benefit of paw protection.
How do you size dog booties?
Size does matter. Incorrectly sized booties will not perform well. We have created a paw sizing chart specific to our Bark'n Boots to assist you. Available on the back of every header card that accompanies our set of four boots is a sizing chart that will get you close. Once you have selected the size based on the chart we always suggest actually fitting the booties on the dog to make certain of a good fit. We also have a sizing chart available though Ruff Wear (by mail or online) or authorized Ruff Wear dealers free of charge so that you may take the chart to the dog if it is not convenient to bring the dog into the shop.
How do you get a dog used to new booties?
For most dogs, footwear is a new concept. The first time your dog tries on a pair of Bark'n Boots it will be difficult not to laugh, as the dog will do a little dance, this is normal. Once you have the booties in place go out and engage in your pup's favorite activity: chasing a ball, catching a flying disk or just running. After about 15 minutes double-check the closure on the boots and adjust. This is considered the "break in" period where the Cordura® upper softens and conforms to the dog's paws. After the break in period you and your buddy are ready to explore. Use common sense and allow some time for your dog to become accustomed to the booties on daily walks. Just as you would never go out on a big hike with new hiking boots, start off on easy hikes and work into the big ones with your dog's new footwear.
|
How much hiking or running is too much on a dog's feet?
Conditioning is key! Any amount of exercise can be too much if the dogs are not conditioned to the surfaces they are walking or running on. We suggest using protective dog booties anytime your dog is in a new environment. Dogs are accustomed to running around "bare foot" in their normal daily environment. But just as humans are susceptible to hot, cold, sharp, abrasive, or caustic surfaces, so are dogs. Be aware and you won't have to carry a lame dog out of the backcountry.
How can you tell if a dog's feet are sore or injured?
If you are in tune with your dog's activity level and personality, you will be able to tell that your dog may be staying off his feet or favoring a paw. Of course it is best to be attentive to the details of your dog's actions after any sustained or excessive exercise. Look for the obvious cuts, blisters or in extreme cases a "sloughed" pad. Less noticeable will be abraded or thin pads. In this case look for small wet dots the size of a ballpoint pen or moist areas on the pads. These are areas where the pad has worn down to the capillaries. This condition is painful, as there is very little pad left on which to walk.
What are some tips for treating a dog's bruised or cut pads?
When treating a cut pad, the first step is to make certain that there are no foreign objects left in the wound. Splinters, gravel and glass are just a few things to look for. Flush the wound with the sterile eye-skin wash found in our First Aid Kit or use a saline solution (1-tsp. salt to a quart of warm water) and dry the paw. You may want to apply an antibiotic ointment then wrap the paw starting with a non-stick pad. A bootie will protect the dressing and keep the area clean between dressing changes. For bruised pads try to reduce activity to allow the pads to heal more rapidly. If left to their own, dogs will often regulate their activity to facilitate quicker healing. Of course the best measure is prevention. Always carry a set of booties so that you have the choice of putting them on your pup before the going gets tough.
|
|
|
